Alpine Fever

Bugaboo Spire - Kain Route

Bugaboos, B.C.

August 2010

Dave and Jill


Our route follows the left-hand skyline.  This is looking from the summit of Eastpost Spire.


'Twas the last day of our splendid trip in the Bugaboos and the weather could not have been finer.  Jill was starting to grasp alpine rock climbing, so we decided to bite off something a bit longer - the famed Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire.  We spent the day in the sunshine scrambling and climbing over excellent rock in a stupendously good position on the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo (Kain Route).  After sitting in camp and looking up at Snowpatch Spire it was neat to be looking down on it as we made it higher on Bugaboo.  We spent over an hour on top just taking in the views and soaking in rays.  Two other climbers passed by the summit, one of which was a Aussie who reminded me of Neil.  After a lengthy descent Jill made her peace with the col, descending it like a poised veteran. 

That evening in camp we met back with Mike and Jodie who were successful on their own climb.  We saved a good portion of our whiskey and chocolate for this exact occasion.  We consumed it knowing that there can be nothing better in life than sharing a long, safe day in the mountains with the people you care about most.

Sunrise on Pigeon and the Howser Towers from the col.


Jill working carefully up the lower sections of the ridge.


After a short pitch we gained the true ridge where the climbing became fun and exposed.


Jill belaying from a phenomenally beautiful and exposed ledge.


The gendarme looms above on the crux pitch.


Jill tiptoes around the gendarme trying not to think about 2,000 feet of void below.


We lingered on the summit for an hour.


Jill prepares the to rappel around the gendarme on the descent.


Later in the evening I returned to camp to find Jodie having a conversation with our tent.

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