Black Peak - Northeast Ridge

North Cascades, Washington

August 2009

Dave and Matt E


Our route from camp at Wing Lake.  The approach to the lake makes a pleasant hike on its own.

Black Peak is a large choss-pile easily seen from the North Cascades Highway.  The only reason to go near it is the presence of a picturesque lake and three or four pitches of outstanding climbing.  At almost 9,000' it stands amongst Goode, Buckner, and Logan as a local giant between Cascade River and Highway 20.  Another good reason to stand on top of Black Peak.

After our half-hearted attempt to climb Shuksan in May we needed to taste success.  Matt had quit his job, tricked out his mini-van, and along with his wife, driven to Argentina surfing and climbing all the way.  This had taken over a year, and now he was blowing through the PNW on his way to graduate school at Harvard.  A traverse of Torment/Forbidden was ruled out so Black Peak was scheduled in its place. 

To my surprise I was able to put the horrible memory of the Teebone Ridge bushwhack out of my memory and get excited for this trip.  As usual we talked about things that wouldn't interest anyone else like the stock market and US foreign policy.  We also got to the top of Black Peak.  Good luck in Boston, Harvard Man.

*I carelessly deleted all my pics, so these are all courtesy of Matt's digi

Dave posing along the gentle hike.  Black Peak awaits beyond the trees.


That evening we hiked the chossy slopes above Wing Lake to see what lurked beyond.  To my pleasant surprise was a perfect view of Mt Goode.


Dave (in the green jacket) on one of the good pitches.


Matt has to smile - big exposure and solid climbing after a night spooning with Dave in the tent.


Matt has read the manual on his camera.  He stitched this summit panorama together in camera.


- September 2009

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