Mt Stuart - North Ridge

Cascade Mountains, Washington

July 27 - 29, 2008

Dave Svilar, Matt A


Route photo.  We approached from Ingalls Lake, came over Goat Pass (where the red line begins) and met the north ridge near the midpoint.  We finished with the Great Gendarme variation.

Matt A and I climbed the north ridge of Mt Stuart - one of the classic climbs in the Pacific Northwest - with a one day weather window.  The route was nothing short of incredible with clean rock, moderate climbing and a ton of exposure.  We'll come back for the complete north ridge in a year when I have forearms. 

Matt appears as a tiny, lone figure crossing the glacier.  The north ridge appears on the skyline.


Matt finds a convenient spot to pose low on the ridge.


Matt organizes the rope midway on the ridge.  Stuart Lake in the distance.


Dave climbing higher on the ridge.  The second image is a crop of the first showing Dave pulling gear (or taking an awkward rest?).


On the first gendarme pitch.


A favorite Cascade belay pedestal.


First sign of an overused area - friendly goats.  Camp near Ingalls Lake.


Mt Stuart reflected in Ingalls Lake.

compiled August 2008

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