Boston Basin

Sahale - Quien Sabe Glacier, Forbidden - E Ridge failure

North Cascades, Washington

August, 2007

Dave Svilar, Matt, Brandon, Roy


An old, classic look at Forbidden Peak from Sahale.  Our plan was to climb the east ridge, which appears to come straight at the viewer in this photo.  The next day's weather deteriorated before any real climbing took place.

Matt and I had done very little together over the past four years, since he was married and we both moved to different states.  This was a rare opportunity to get out and although we did not accomplish our objective - to climb Forbidden's east ridge - we had fun just climbing Sahale and being in Boston Basin.  Hopefully someday the frequency of our trips will improve.  For now I'll enjoy the pretty pictures of this little excursion.

I headed up into the basin a day earlier to spend some time alone exploring the area with my Nikon.  I was disappointed with the lack of clouds, but in the late afternoon the wind shifted and brought in some atmospheric-enhancing smoke from a Lake Chelan fire.  This is looking across the Cascade River Valley towards Johanesburg.
The smoke cleared out in the morning, but no interesting clouds blew in...  My wish for clouds was answered a bit too resoundingly the next day.
Beneath the south face of Forbidden.  You can almost see the glacier receding in this part of the basin.
The Elley boys had just climbed Baker the day before, so I thought they might be burned out when they reached Boston Basin.  Within a few minutes of their arrival we promptly made tracks for the summit of Sahale.
Our crew on the Boston-Sahale col.  A spectaculary location with Boston Peak in the upper left and Cascade 9ers Buckner and Logan on the right.
Matt on the Boston-Sahale col.
Descending the Quien Sabe Glacier beneath Sharkfin Tower and towards Forbidden Pk.
Preparing to set off for the east ridge of Forbidden.
Ascending the only snowpatch on the way to the east ridge.
Locked and loaded for the east ridge...  Not shown here: cold wind and approaching storm clouds.
Headless Pooper.  I wanted to capture an image with someone on the can - one of the world's finest views from a toilet.  When this unfortunate youth forgot his toilet paper a deal was struck.  His head was erased, so he wouldn't get in trouble with his mom (still lives with parents). 

-written October 2007

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